Why Flax Suits a Drop Spindle

If you can spin wool, you can spin flax — but it helps to know what you are getting into. Flax fibres are long, stiff and slightly slippery, with almost no crimp to hold them together. Where wool asks for a gentle hand, linen demands twist, and plenty of it. A drop spindle gives you that twist cheaply: no wheel to buy, no bobbins to match, and a distaff's worth of fibre will keep you busy for several evenings.

It is also one of the most satisfying fibres to spin by hand, because the change is so visible. Dry, straw-like flax becomes a smooth, glossy yarn with a faint sheen that no mill-spun cotton quite imitates. Expect the first metre to be lumpy and the tenth to surprise you.

• Spindle: 30–60g, with the weight close to the rim. Heavier spindles keep turning through the long draft that flax needs.
• Distaff: a dowel or clean broom handle, roughly 60–90cm long.
• Fibre: line flax for fine, strong linen; tow, the shorter combed-out fibres, for a softer, woollier yarn that is easier to learn on.
• Water: a small bowl at your side and a towel. Damp hands are the whole trick.

Dressing the Distaff

Line flax arrives as a strick — a long hank of combed fibres, often tied at one end. Undo the ties carefully and spread the fibres into a wide fan. Lay the distaff across the middle of the fan, then fold the fibres over the top and secure them with a ribbon or a length of cotton, wound in a criss-cross or gentle spiral. You want the fibres held firmly but loose enough that single strands pull free from the lower edge.

Tuck the distaff under your left arm, or into your waistband if you prefer, with the fibre fanning out to your left. Now both hands are free: your left hand controls the fibre supply, your right hand rolls the spindle along your thigh or between your palms. Pinch a few fibres between thumb and forefinger and draw them out slowly. Add twist, let it travel up to the distaff, then wind the finished yarn onto the shaft.

Work with a short forward draw rather than the long draw you might use for wool. Flax will not forgive a rushed draft; the fibres need to slide past one another a little at a time.

Wet Spinning: Damp Fingers, Smoother Yarn

This is the technique that separates passable linen from beautiful linen. Keep a bowl of water within reach and dip your fingers every few draws — traditional spinners used saliva, and there is some sense in it, since it is slightly sticky and always the right temperature. A drop of vinegar in the water helps some spinners; warm water alone is fine.

As the twist enters the drafting zone, pinch the new yarn between a wet thumb and forefinger and slide your grip down. The moisture softens the pectin in the flax, letting the fibres lie flat and blend. The result is a smooth, dense yarn that looks almost polished. Spin tow dry or only lightly dampened, as wetting short fibres makes them mat.

Keep a cloth over your knee to catch drips, and change the water when it goes cloudy. Your hands will smell faintly of hay, which is part of the pleasure.

Joining, Consistency and Plying

Flax does not felt, so joins must be made deliberately. Overlap two ends by about 5cm, wet them thoroughly, and twist them together firmly as you add the new fibre. A good join in wet-spun linen almost disappears after finishing.

Consistency comes from sampling. Spin a metre, wind it off, and look at it against a window. If it varies wildly, slow down and count your drafting motions. Most beginners under-spin linen; if the yarn feels hairy or drifts apart when pulled, add more twist.

• Yarn snapping? Too much twist in too thin a spot. Ease off and draft thicker.
• Yarn drifting apart? Too little twist. Roll the spindle again before drafting further.
• Fibres tangling at the distaff? You are pulling too many at once. Separate a thinner strip.
• Lumpy texture? Overlapping fibres are escaping the twist. Wet your fingers and smooth the yarn as you spin.

Linen is usually plied for strength, and two-ply is the simplest option. Ply from two spindles, or wind a centre-pull ball and ply from both ends.

Finishing: Boil, Rinse, Beat

Freshly spun linen is stiff and wiry, and it needs finishing to become cloth-worthy. Wind the yarn into skeins, tie them in four places so they cannot tangle, and simmer gently for about an hour with a little gentle soap or a pinch of washing soda. This sets the twist and brightens the colour. Rinse in water of the same temperature, then dry the skeins in the shade.

For softness, beat the dry skein against a wall or a smooth stone, or roll it between your palms. Linen continues to soften every time it is washed and worn, which is why old household linen feels so lovely. Store skeins wound loosely, away from damp.

Dyeing Your Handspun Linen

Plant fibres take dye differently from wool, so a little preparation pays off. Scour the skeins thoroughly first, then treat them with a tannin bath — oak galls, tea, or sumac — before mordanting with alum. This is the standard route for cellulose and it makes the difference between a colour that fades in a season and one that holds.

Madder root gives terracotta and brick reds, weld a clear yellow, onion skins a warm gold, and walnut hulls a rich brown that needs no mordant at all. Indigo is the exception to everything: a vat dye that needs no mordant and gives linen its famous deep blue with repeated dips. Dye in skeins rather than in the fleece, so you can blend shades in the weaving or knitting. Keep notes on quantities and timings. Colours on linen are quieter and more muted than on wool — that softness is the character of the fibre, and worth learning to love.